Tools

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The tools of a milliner

To make a hat, numerous tools are necessary, among them :
1. Scissors, needles and pins.
2. Flat-irons of different sizes.

3. Iron-moulds to stretch the materials when hot.
4. Damping cloth (Wet linen to iron).
5. An ironing-board.
6. A steam-kettle to shape the cones.
7. Flat and cutting pliers for the brass.
8. Flat or curved blocks to do the brim work.
9. Dummy-heads reproducing the head volume and a profile beginning (looking for the shape of a hat).

10. Conformers, to make the hats wider.
11. Hat stands.

moulds, hat stands and conformers (background)

12. Hands to feel the felt :

13. Flowers or leaves' moulds :

14. Dye in powder or canister.
15. Several sewing machines.

The hat-maker workshop :

Contrary to men's hat making, no typical scenario exists for making a hat by a milliner. The common list of materials (felt, straw, silk, velvet, horse-hair, feather, leather, ...) can be enlarged with things like newspaper, wood-chips, brass-wire !

The hat shapes are unlimited. The art of making a feminine hat compares with the art of sculpture : the milliner makes a model of the hat with a rigid linen-cloth of natural fibres, the "sparterie", having the look of a straw canvas on one side and stiffened muslin on the other. Humidified, the sparterie can be stretched and fashioned into shape. The milliner feels for the shape by hand or by using wooden-moulds. Shaped with brass-wires, it gives a greater rigidity.
All over the surface, the model is joined with sparterie strips or other supporting cloths like "cingalette" (cloth thread canvas), and several layers are applied.

The solid mould obtained is called "type" or "barded type" and is used to shape the felts, straws and fabrics.

This explanation has been made by Gaëlle GENOT for her formation in Handicraft and Artistic Trade in the shop of the "Hats of Isabelle".